After Mount Fuji, I took the bus to Shinjuku for 5 days. Stayed at APA Hotel with rooftop onsen, explored Harajuku, hit up Anytime Fitness, walked through crazy Kabukicho at night, and visited TeamLab Borderless.
Tokyo is different from Osaka. More intense, more crowded, way more things to do. But also more expensive and easier to get lost.
Trip Summary
| Details | Info |
|---|---|
| Travel Dates | Dec 10-15, 2025 (5 nights) |
| From Kawaguchiko | Highway bus to Shinjuku (2.5 hours) |
| Bus Cost | ¥2,000 (~SGD $20) |
| Hotel | APA Hotel Shinjuku Tower – SGD $180/night |
| Hotel Total (5 nights) | ~SGD $900 |
| TeamLab Borderless | SGD $38.89 (Klook) |
| Back to Narita Airport | Narita Express ¥3,070 (~SGD $30) |
| Main Areas Explored | Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Meiji Jingu |
| Total 5D Budget | ~SGD $1,300-1,500 (hotel + food + activities) |
Getting from Kawaguchiko to Shinjuku
Took the highway bus from Kawaguchiko Station to Shinjuku. Cost ¥2,000 (~SGD $20), supposed to take 2 hours.
But there was delay. Bus was supposed to arrive 10:45am, ended up reaching 11:15am – about 30 mins late. Not sure why, maybe traffic.
The journey itself was smooth tho. I slept the whole way. Bus has comfortable seats, AC, enough legroom.
Pro tip: Bus is way easier than taking multiple trains. No transfers, no lugging bags up and down stairs. Direct from Kawaguchiko to Shinjuku Station.
Source: Personal experience Dec 2025
Where I Stayed – APA Hotel Shinjuku Tower
Stayed at APA Hotel & Resort Nishishinjuku Gochome Ekimae Tower. This is the big APA tower hotel with onsen on top floor.
Cost: SGD $180 per night. Yeah it’s not cheap. For 5 nights that’s $900 total.
Why I Picked This Hotel
Rooftop onsen/hot spring (free for guests). This was the main reason. Hotel has proper hot spring bath on 25th-28th floor with indoor and outdoor pools.
Free for all guests. After walking 20,000+ steps daily around Tokyo, soaking in hot onsen at night was perfect recovery.
Location in Shinjuku. Less than 10 mins walk to Shinjuku Station. Easy access to JR lines, Yamanote line, subway. Can go anywhere in Tokyo from here.
Convenience stores and food nearby. 7-Eleven and FamilyMart within 2 mins walk. Tons of restaurants around. Don’t have to walk far for anything.
Room Quality
Standard APA Hotel room. Small (typical Japan hotel size) but has everything:
– Single or double bed (I had single)
– Desk and chair – Small bathroom with unit bath
– AC/heating – TV, wifi, phone – Small fridge
Room was clean. Bed was comfortable. No complaints honestly.
The Onsen Experience
The rooftop onsen is legit. They have:
– Indoor hot pools (different temperatures)
– Outdoor rotenburo (open-air bath)
– Sauna – Cold plunge pool
– Rest area with reclining chairs
Open until late night so you can soak after exploring Tokyo. The outdoor bath has city views which is nice at night with all the lights.
APA Hotel vs Other Shinjuku Options
| Hotel | Price/Night | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| APA Hotel Shinjuku Tower | SGD $150-200 | Free onsen, great location, clean | Small rooms, pricey |
| Hotel Gracery Shinjuku | SGD $120-180 | Has Godzilla on roof, central | No onsen, touristy |
| Keio Plaza Hotel | SGD $200-300 | Luxury option, spacious rooms | Expensive, too formal |
| Tokyu Stay Shinjuku | SGD $100-150 | Has kitchenette, good value | No onsen, basic |
| Hostels (various) | SGD $30-60 | Cheap, meet travelers | Shared rooms/bath, no privacy |
My take: If you want onsen access after long days exploring, APA Tower is worth the price. If you’re on tight budget, regular APA Hotels without onsen are SGD $80-120 and still good quality.
Source: Personal stay Dec 2025, Booking.com prices, Reddit r/JapanTravel reviews
Day 1 – Arrive Shinjuku, Gym, Meiji Jingu, Ichiran Ramen
Bus arrived Shinjuku 11:15am. Checked into hotel, dropped bags.
Anytime Fitness Shibuya
First thing I did? Went to gym. I’m that gym guy who needs workout even on vacation.
Went to Anytime Fitness near Shibuya Center Gai. About 15 mins train from Shinjuku.
If you have Anytime Fitness membership from Singapore, you can use Japan locations free. Just show your key fob.
The gym was smaller than Singapore ones but well-equipped. Has all the basics – squat rack, bench press, dumbbells, cardio machines. Busy around 6-7pm but ok during afternoon.
Meiji Jingu Shrine
After gym, took train to Harajuku Station to visit Meiji Jingu shrine.
This is one of Tokyo’s main Shinto shrines. Massive grounds, surrounded by forest, very peaceful compared to busy Harajuku streets outside.
Entry: Free Time needed: 1-1.5 hours to walk around properly
The approach to the shrine is through tall trees, gravel paths, traditional torii gates. Feels like you’re far from city even though you’re right in middle of Tokyo.
When I visited (early December), there were some people preparing for New Year celebrations. Traditional decorations being set up.
Ichiran Ramen – 45 Min Wait
For dinner went to Ichiran Ramen in Shinjuku around 8pm. Big mistake timing-wise.
The estimated wait time? 45 minutes. And it actually took that long.
December 10th is apparently busy time – mix of locals and tourists. Everyone wants Ichiran.
But once you get in, the experience is unique: – Order from vending machine – Solo dining booth with partitions – Fill out form for customization (spice level, garlic, noodle firmness, etc) – Ramen arrives through curtain, minimal interaction – Focus on just eating your ramen
Cost: Around ¥1,000-1,200 (~SGD $10-12) for bowl of ramen.
Was it worth 45 min wait? Ramen was good, very rich tonkotsu broth. But honestly other ramen shops are equally good without the wait. The solo booth experience is cool for first time tho.
Source: Personal experience Dec 2025
Convenience Store Life Hack for Gym Guys
If you’re into fitness and traveling Japan, convenience stores are your best friend.
High-protein drinks everywhere. Every 7-Eleven, FamilyMart, Lawson has protein shakes, protein bars, high-protein yogurt drinks. Way cheaper than Singapore.
Protein drink: ¥150-250 (~SGD $1.50-2.50) for 200ml with 15-20g protein Compare to Singapore where similar drink is $4-6.
I bought one every morning from 7-Eleven. Kept my protein intake up without carrying protein powder.
They also have: – Boiled eggs (2 pack for ¥120) – Chicken breast (¥200-300) – Greek yogurt style drinks – Salad chicken packs
Between gym access and cheap protein options, Tokyo is actually good for maintaining fitness routine while traveling.
Days 2-4 – Exploring Tokyo Districts
Harajuku & Takeshita Street
Went to Harajuku multiple times. The area around Harajuku Station and Takeshita Street is crazy.
Takeshita Street is about 350-400 meters of pure shopping chaos. Packed with:
– Fashion boutiques (cosplay, streetwear, vintage)
– Crepe stands (famous Marion Crepes)
– Candy stores – Character shops – Cafes
Opens 11am-6pm as pedestrian-only zone. Gets insanely crowded on weekends. Like shoulder-to-shoulder packed.
I went on weekday afternoon – still busy but manageable. Weekend would be nightmare for photos.
Animal Cafes
Tried a couple pet cafes near Harajuku.
Capybara: Capybara with different themed rooms. Cost around ¥4,000(~SGD $40-45) for 1 hour.
Shiba Inu cafe: Place full of shiba dogs. Around ¥3,000-4,000 (~SGD $30-40) depending on time slot.
The shibas were cute but honestly kinda expensive for what you get. You’re paying to sit in room with dogs for an hour. Dogs are friendly tho, and if you love shibas it’s worth it.
Most pet cafes have similar pricing: ¥2,000-4,000 for 30min-1hour depending on animal type and popularity.
Shibuya Crossing
Had to see the famous Shibuya Crossing. This is that massive intersection where like 2,500 people cross at once when lights change.
Best time to visit: 5-8pm on weekdays (rush hour) if you want maximum crowd chaos. That’s when it’s most impressive.
I went around 6pm. Yeah it’s packed. People crossing from all directions, organized chaos. Pretty cool to experience once.
Best viewing spot: Starbucks in Shibuya Tsutaya building overlooking the crossing. But expect queue to get window seats.
Alternative: Just cross it yourself multiple times. Stand on the corner, watch the wave of people, then join the crossing. Free and you’re part of the experience.
Source: Personal visits Dec 2025, GetYourGuide Shibuya guide, Tokyo Cheapo Takeshita Street guide
Kabukicho at Night – The Neon District
Walked through Kabukicho few nights. This is Tokyo’s famous entertainment district – lots of bars, clubs, restaurants, and yeah, some sketchy stuff too.
What It’s Actually Like
Kabukicho has reputation as dangerous red-light district. Reality? It’s mostly safe if you stick to main streets.
The main area around Godzilla statue (on Toho Building) is super bright, lots of tourists, totally fine. Tons of restaurants, arcades, Don Quijote megastore.
The atmosphere is unique. Neon lights everywhere, constant energy, people everywhere even past midnight. Very “Blade Runner” cyberpunk vibe.
Safety Tips
– Stay on well-lit main roads (Yasukuni Street, around Godzilla) – Avoid narrow side alleys, especially late at night
– Ignore touts trying to pull you into bars (some are scams) – Don’t follow anyone offering “special” deals
– Travel in groups if possible late at night
– Last train is around midnight, use taxis after that
I walked through Kabukicho around 9-10pm several times. Never felt unsafe on main streets. Just lots of lights, noise, people going to bars and restaurants.
Where I Ate in Kabukicho
Found this tiny ramen shop on a side street. Literally only 5-6 seats at the counter. No English menu, just pictures.
Cost: ¥2000 for bowl of ramen (~SGD $20). Simple, no-frills, but really good. The kind of place locals go to.
These small shops are all over Kabukicho side streets. If you see local salarymen eating there, usually a good sign.
Source: Personal visits Dec 2025, Umami Bites Kabukicho safety guide
Shopping Tip – Buy Uniqlo Heattech Here
If you need winter clothes, buy Uniqlo Heattech in Japan, not Singapore.
Price comparison: – Singapore: Heattech shirt ~$30 SGD – Japan: Same shirt ¥1,500-1,900 (~SGD $15-19)
That’s almost half price for same product.
Important: Get the Ultra Warm Heattech or Extra Warm versions, not regular Heattech. The regular one is too thin for December Japan weather. Ultra Warm actually keeps you warm.
I bought 3 long-sleeve Ultra Warm shirts – wore them layered under my jacket every day. Made huge difference in staying warm.
Uniqlo stores everywhere in Tokyo – Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Harajuku. Can’t miss them.
TeamLab Borderless – The Highlight
On one of the days, went to TeamLab Borderless at Mori Building in Azabudai Hills.
Ticket: SGD $38.89 via Klook (¥3,800 if you buy direct) Time spent: 2 hours Location: Azabudai Hills, Minato-ku
What Is It?
Digital art museum with interactive installations. Rooms full of projected lights, colors, animations that respond to your movement.
Hard to describe – it’s like walking through different dimensions. Flower rooms where digital flowers bloom around you. Mirror rooms with infinite reflections. Light waterfalls. Floating lanterns.
Everything is immersive. You’re not just looking at art, you’re inside the art.
The Experience
I spent 2 hours there and could’ve stayed longer. Each room is different, you discover new areas as you walk around. Some rooms have queues to enter cause they’re popular photo spots.
The installations change and evolve – flowers grow and disappear, lights change colors, animations react when you touch walls or walk through spaces.
If you’re into photography or just want unique experience, this is must-visit.
Important Rules
No long tripods allowed. You can bring handheld phone or camera, but longer tripod is not allowed inside.
Selfie sticks must be very short – less than one arm length. Basically if it extends beyond your reach, can’t bring it.
They’re strict about this at entrance. Security checks bags. I saw people having to leave their GoPro poles and tripods at entrance.
Tips for Visiting
- Book in advance on Klook – cheaper than buying at door, and you lock in time slot.
- Go on weekdays if possible – weekends are packed.
- Wear comfortable shoes – you’ll be walking and standing alot.
- Bring phone/camera – the photo ops are insane.
- Allow 2-3 hours minimum – don’t rush, explore properly.
Worth every dollar of that $38.89. One of the best things I did in Tokyo.
Source: Personal visit Dec 2025, TeamLab official site, TheAwkwardTraveller review
Tokyo Maps Are Confusing – Use Google Maps
Real talk: Tokyo is confusing to navigate. Streets aren’t in grid pattern like New York. Addresses don’t follow logical order. Train system has like 10 different lines.
Solution: Google Maps for everything.
Google Maps in Tokyo shows: – Which train line to take – Which exit to use at stations (important – some stations have 20+ exits) – Walking directions – Real-time train times – How much the fare costs
Download offline maps before you go. Cell data can be slow underground.
I used Google Maps probably 50 times a day. Without it I would’ve been completely lost.
Tokyo Illuminations – Free Light Shows
In December, Tokyo has illumination events – basically fancy Christmas light displays.
I saw one near Shiodome and Marunouchi area. Beautiful lighting installations along the streets. Trees covered in LED lights, light tunnels, projected animations on buildings.
These are free to walk through. Just show up, walk around, take photos. No tickets needed.
Main illumination areas in Tokyo: – Marunouchi (near Tokyo Station) – Shiodome/Caretta area – Roppongi Hills – Shibuya Blue Cave (if it’s running) – Yebisu Garden Place
Usually run from late November to late December or early January. Worth walking through if you’re there during that time.
Last Day – Back to Narita Airport
On December 15th, needed to get to Narita Airport for my flight back to Singapore.
Narita Express Train
Took the Narita Express (N’EX) from Shinjuku Station to Narita Airport Terminal.
Cost: ¥3,250 (~SGD $32) from Shinjuku to Narita Duration: 1 hour 20 mins
The train is fast, comfortable, has space for luggage. Reserved seating so you’re guaranteed a seat.
Trains run every 30-60 mins depending on time of day. Buy tickets at JR Ticket Office in Shinjuku Station or use vending machines.
Cheaper alternative: Keisei Skyliner is ¥2,520 and also fast. Or local trains for ¥1,340 but takes 2+ hours with transfers.
I paid extra for Narita Express cause I had heavy bags and wanted comfort. Worth it for convenience.
Overnight at Narita Airport Hotel
My flight was early next morning (8:15am), so I booked hotel at Narita Airport – Tokyo Inn Tokyo Narita Airport.
Can walk to terminal 1 to hotel in 20 mins.
Cost: Around SGD $60-100 for one night.
Why stay at airport? Cause my flight was 8:15am. If I stayed in Tokyo, would need leave hotel 6am to shuttle bus. Easier to just stay at airport, wake up 6am, stroll to terminal.
Flight left 8:15am, reached Singapore 3:30pm same day. About 7 hour flight.
Source: Personal experience Dec 2025, JR East N’EX pricing
Total Cost Breakdown – 5 Days Tokyo
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Bus (Kawaguchiko to Shinjuku) | ¥2,000 (~SGD $20) |
| Hotel (5 nights @ APA Shinjuku) | ~SGD $900 |
| TeamLab Borderless | SGD $38.89 |
| Food (average ¥5,000/day x 5 days) | ~SGD $245 |
| Local transport (trains, subway) | ~SGD $80 |
| Pet cafes & activities | ~SGD $60 |
| Shopping (Uniqlo, etc) | ~SGD $100 |
| Narita Express to airport | ¥3,250 (~SGD $32) |
| Airport hotel (1 night) | ~SGD $90 |
| Total 5 Days | ~SGD $1,566 |
Budget could be lower if you: – Stay at cheaper hotel without onsen (~SGD $500 savings) – Skip TeamLab and pet cafes (~SGD $100 savings) – Eat more convenience store food (~SGD $100 savings) – Skip airport hotel, take early train (~SGD $90 savings)
Budget traveler could probably do 5 days Tokyo for ~SGD $800-900.
Tokyo vs Osaka – My Take
After doing both Osaka and Tokyo on same trip, here’s the difference:
Osaka: More relaxed, better food scene, cheaper, easier to navigate, friendly vibe. Great for first-time Japan visitors.
Tokyo: More intense, way more things to do, better shopping, modern/futuristic, harder to navigate, more expensive. Better for repeat visitors who want variety.
If I had to pick one? Depends on purpose. Food trip = Osaka. Shopping and activities = Tokyo.
But honestly, do both if you can. They’re different experiences.
What I Wish I Knew Before Tokyo
- Hotel location matters more in Tokyo than Osaka. Stay near major stations (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Shinagawa). You’ll save hours of travel time.
- Last train is around midnight. After that, taxis are expensive. Plan your night activities accordingly.
- Convenience stores are your friend. For quick meals, snacks, drinks, even proper food. Open 24/7.
- Buy IC card (Suica/Pasmo) for trains. Way easier than buying individual tickets. Works on all trains, buses, even vending machines.
- December is busy. Christmas season + New Year prep = crowds everywhere. Book hotels early.
Final Thoughts
Tokyo lived up to the hype. Like yeah it’s crowded and expensive, but the variety of things to do is insane.
The APA Hotel with rooftop onsen was perfect after long days walking. TeamLab Borderless was mind-blowing. The food everywhere was good. Even just walking through Kabukicho at night was entertaining.
5 days felt right. Enough time to see main areas without rushing, but not so long that I got bored.
Combined with Osaka (4N5D) and Mount Fuji (2N), this whole Japan trip was about 11-12 days total. Perfect amount of time for first proper Japan visit.
Would I go back to Tokyo? Yeah definitely. Still haven’t been to Asakusa, Akihabara, Odaiba. Plenty more to explore.
But next time maybe skip December crowds. Spring with cherry blossoms or autumn with fall colors probably better timing.
For now, need go gym cause I definitely ate too much ramen this trip, you know?
